Adventures at Bouchercon

Had an appointment to talk with my editor at Bouchercon. Sounds simple, right?

Well, let me tell you about driving in Albany. The Hilton was not on any of the maps I had and the GPS sent us to a Hilton on the other side of the city. Mapquest and the GPS both send the driver along Washington Ave – which just stops!

Once I got to the Hilton I roamed around outside looking for the door in. Finally, some kind cleaner let me in the back door. The hotel is so modern it is difficult to find unnecessary items like doors.

After my meeting, I walked over to the Egg for my panel discussion. Very interesting and fun and I was really impressed by my panel mates: M. E. Kemp, Leslie Wheeler, Simone St. James, and Mel Bradshaw. After the panel I wandered around, ate lunch, went to the book room, and discovered to my horror that I had a line waiting for me to sign books

Yipes! Memo to self: always be prepared to sign.

I hope I do better next year in California!

Bouchercon

One of the new experiences that came with my new status as a published writer is writers’ conferences. Been to many librarian conferences but these are new. This is my second Bouchercon and I greatly enjoy them. Yesterday, before the opening ceremonies, I attended the annual party given my Minotaur (St. martin’s Press/Macmillan) for the authors. I cannot fully describe the thrill of seeing some of the rock stars of the writing world. Julia Spencer-Fleming, Louise Penney, Charles Finch. I met for the first time some of those who’ve reviewed my books: Lourdes Venata, Oline Coghill. The party was held on a veranda overlooking the city of Albany, and what a beautiful view it was too.

All in all, a really great experience.

Dyeing with indigo

sweater-indigo

I’ll return to looms next blog. But I wanted to post about the indigo dyed sweater. Indigo loses strength with repeated dyeing I like the marbled effect but if one dyes the fiber in successive batches, as I did, the later skeins of yarn are lighter. See the sleeve? Still a few bits of darker dye, but overall the color is a lot less intense. Just FYI for all the dyers out there.

Early looms – warp weighted

No discussion of early looms would be complete without mentioning warp weighted looms.

As I mentioned in a previous post, weights have been discovered in archeological digs. The earliest date from the seventh century B.C. in Anatolia. In Europe, this type of loom was used since Neolithic times ( and according to one of the books I read is still used in Norway!). It is thought that this is the type of loom used in Ancient Greece.

What makes this loom different? Well, most of the modern looms are oriented horizontally. The weaver sits on a stool or bench. The warp runs from a front beam through the reed and heddles to a beam at the back. The tension or the warp threads can be adjusted by tightening the beam. The warp weighted loom is oriented vertically. In a warp weighted loom, the weaver stands.Moreover, she must walk back and forth and she pushes her shuttle through the sheds. How did she obtain several yards of cloth? With the modern jack, the warp can be very long and rolled around the front beam, and unrolled gradually as the weft threads are woven through. From what I’ve read, the warp weighted looms were tall. From the descriptions, she would have had to stand on a stool for the first bit of weaving. And pieces of cloth would have had to be sewn together to achieve the necessary length.

Tension is very important. To achieve a closely woven cloth, the warp and weft threads must be tightly packed together. So, the warp in every loom is under tension. In the warp weighted loom, warp threads are tied around weights that hang to an inch or so above the ground. Sticks would have had to be put through the warp to form the sheds.

All in all, weaving with this type of loom would have been much more physical than with a more modern loom. And, as a weaver, I wonder how it would have been possible to create the different patterns possible to construct on even a four shed jack loom.

A word about Norway and the Norse. The warp weighted loom is the type that would have been brought to the Norse (and Viking) colonies. Think Iceland, Greenland, and even early North America. Remnants of these looms, as well as cloth and weights, have been excavated from digs in all these areas. Ostergard, in Woven Into the Earth, discusses the digs in Greenland and the artifacts removed from just such a dig. The colonies were originally established during the middle ages. I always thought that the name Greenland was a lie,  chosen to lure colonists to a harsh and forbidding land. But the climate during this time was much warmer than it became later. In England, the climate was so warm grapes were grown and England had its own wine industry. But after the eleventh century, the climate became much colder. (It is call the Little Ice Age). So much for English made wine. And the climate in Greenland (and in North America) became too harsh for these colonies and they had to be abandoned. Or else the colonists died out.

An interesting study of the burials in North America shows that the bones, coming forward, show evidence of starvation and nutritional deficiencies. The dead also had to be buried in much more shallow graves since the permafrost line rose and graves couldn’t be dug as deeply as formerly.

Weaving and an interest in looms has led me far afield.

 

Early looms

Why am I so fascinated with looms? Well, partly because textiles themselves fascinate me. I quilt, dye fabric and have tried my hand at weaving. Some hand weavers I know also spin. For most of human history, spinning and weaving were core to, not just the production of cloth, but to a central experience of living. Every culture has some form of weaving. Egyptian paintings, images on Classical Greek pots, excavations in Greenland all speak to the ubiquity of looms and the equipment by which cloth was made. Some times fragments of clothing are discovered as well, clothing that was worn by people of that era

.Looms, in other words, developed in some form everywhere in the world. All looms must hold the warp threads straight, must be able to form sheds (the opening that is formed by lifting alternate threads and allows a space for the weft thread (or shuttle if one has been invented) to go through, and a beater that presses the weft threads together to form the cloth.

Broudy suggests that basket weaving predated weaving with fibers. That makes sense since the reeds or other vegetable matter are intertwined in much the same way as the warp and weft. No loom necessary. Early looms were probably a cord strung between two poles, or trees and the weft is woven from the top. It must be hard to weave this way. But it is easy to see how the warp weighted looms developed. The hanging threads, especially of some softer fiber, would need to be weighted to maintain the necessary tension.

One type of early loom that I find fascinating is the ground loom. Two pegs are driven into the ground at either end. The weaver sits on the floor. Primitive right? Nonetheless, the Egyptians managed to weave sheer  linen in this manner.Sher linen, I might add, that the mechanized looms do not seem able to duplicate.  And linen is a difficult fiber to weave since the linen yarn has no give or stretch.

Anyway, back to the warp weighted loom. Pictures on Greek pottery clearly show looms with weights at the ends of the threads. Weavers were able to weave tapestries on these looms and both Barber and Broudy suggest that the cloth Penelope was weaving while she waited for Odysseus was a story tapestry. (This makes sense. If it were straight weaving, the suitors would have to be idiots not to realize she was ripping out the rows she’d woven during the day. ) Warp weighted looms have also been found in Scandanavia.

weaving in myths and legends

Spinning and weaving were so important in the past that these activities are a regular feature of the myths and stories that have come down to us. Think Sleeping Beauty, put to sleep by pricking her finger on a spindle.

Usually the myths put the creation of weaving at the beginning of  history. As we might expect, many of the early myths attribute the beginnings to the spider, or, in China, the silk worm. The myth of the spider-weaver was still present in the Greek myths during the Classical period. (Remember, Hera turned Ariadne into a spider for comparing her weaving to the Hera’s.)  So the archeologists say that weaving probably began somewhere in the dawn of prehistory. There was weaving before there were looms. And spinning before that. Barber, in Women’s work, the first 20,000 years, talks about cords and string that were used as netting. Sometimes the fibers were twisted together to make a stronger cord. And then plaiting strands together was invented. Who would guess that braiding would have to be discovered?

Anyway, references to spinning and weaving are all through the folktales we still know now. Besides Sleeping Beauty, there are the three fates, who determine a man’s lifespan. How many fairy tales are there where the simple but beautiful and virtuous maiden must spin straw into gold. Rumplestiltskin is probably the most well known of this theme but there are others.

Remember the Grimm story of the princess supposed to spin straw into gold. She is helped to do so but the price is to invite three deformed women to her wedding.(Rather do this than give up my first born.)  One has a swollen lip, from moistening the fiber, one a large foot from pressing the treadle on a spinning wheel and the large thumb comes from twisting the fiber into yarn. Or the 12 swans where the sister had to weave nettles into shirts by a certain time or her brothers will stay swans forever. She is unable to finish the last shirt and one brother has a swan wing the rest of his life.

These are stories we still know, although I venture to say most children in the past were up close to both spinning and weaving in the home.

Looms and how they work

I had a question put to me this past weekend. How do looms work? Looms are sophisticated pieces of equipment. In the book Women’s Work, the First 20,000 years, Barber makes the point that the first cloths were actually made of twisted fibers. The process of weaving had not been invented.  There have been a variety of looms (more about that later) but all looms share a few characteristics in common.

First, the primary job of a loom is to hold the warp threads taut. For those of you who are non-weavers, warp threads are the length-wise threads. The weft go crosswise.Unlike knitting or crocheting, in which interlocking loops form the cloth, the warp and weft cross each other at right angles. Different methods of holding the warp taut has been employed through history.

The other important feature is the ‘cross’. If one thinks about cloth, it is easy to see that the various threads don’t just lie upon one another. Each weft thread goes over and under the warp threads.Also, in a block of three weft threads, the middle one goes over and under  a different warp thread. So, there must be some way of lifting the warp threads to insert each one of the weft threads. Now handweavers use a shuttle, but this is a relatively recent invention. Backstrap weavers use their fingers to lift the threads so that the finished cloth is woven in a memorized pattern. Without the cross,(I.e. where the warp threads and weft threads cross) there would be no cloth. Heddles and shed sticks (or the sheds in, say the jack loom) make it easy to lift the appropriate warp threads.  Every other warp thread is lifted and then the alternate threads the next pass of the weft. This is how one ‘weaves’ the threads in and out.

Most of the other inventions connected with a loom basically provide some way to weave a pattern. Modern looms employ heddles (which look like long large eyed needles) and reeds (big comb- looking pieces).The more the slots (or dents in weaver talk) o a reed, the finer the cloth. These separate the threads and by connecting the treadles to the appropriate threads  various patterns can be constructed.

As looms grew more sophisticated. they went from the basic warp and weft (2 sheds)  to multiple sheds. A shed is simply the space between the warp and weft. More sheds mean more combinations for lifting the warp threads and so more patterns.

 

Cosmopolitan Salem

From out modern vantage point, we think of ourselves as sophisticated and worldly, and the eighteenth century as primitive and insular. Well, that may be partly true. But international trade during the 1790’s was extensive. Salem Mass, as the city that sent out the first American merchant ships, was especially cosmopolitan and affluent to boot.

We learn in school about the search for spices. And spices were a big part of the trade. The first merchant ship that went to India and environs in 1783, the Grand Turk, returned to Salem with pepper and made a profit of 700%.

But spices, although important, were not the only cargo. Ships went out to Russia and traded furs and iron, to India for spices, cloth and opium, and finally to China. One of the trade goods that became such a part of American culture that no one recalls the origin is the humble bandanna. Yes, these simple cloth squares were imports from India and became an essential part of, first, a sailor’s wardrobe, and then a cowboy’s. The fabric used was bandhini (hence the name) which means tie and dye.

Sailors, primarily whaling men. brought back the art of tattooing from Polynesia. This is why early stereotypes of sailors mark them as tattooed; they adopted the practice before it became popular in the wider American culture.

Moreover, People in Salem saw merchants from these exotic countries. Salem is home to one of the first colonies of immigrants in the US.

Salem declined in importance as a shipping port during the 1800s as the harbor began to silt up and Boston took over. But the East India Marine Society established a museum (and a library as well as a number of other institutions) which included artifacts from India and numbered some Indian gentlemen among the donors.

ALA in Chicago

As a lifelong librarian, I have gone to more conferences than I can count. Mostly local (Library Association of Rockland County, New York Library Association, and occasionally a national conference. I would have wanted to go to New Orleans but I’ve never made it. Not yet anyway, but I hope to one day.

This year, though, the conference was in Chicago. What an interesting city!

McCormick Conference Center

My usual plan is to take a few workshops and hit the exhibits. Always the exhibits.

In Exhibit hall

And now that I am a published author, I do writing stuff.

panel discussion

I look like I’m sleeping but I’m not. Really. I was on a panel with Charles Finch, Julia Keller,T heresa Schwegel and Tasha Alexander. All very talented writers. After the panel discussion, we signed books. I met a fan, one of the great thrills of my life.

SINC booth

I signed three and a half cartons of books at the Sisters in Crime Booth. I am seated with Libby Hellman here.

Any downsides? Well, I didn’t get to stay in Chicago as long as I would have liked. And now I plan to reread the Harry Dresdens. As I traveled around Chicago, I kept looking for a likely building that would house Harry’s apartment (destroyed in one of the newer Books – Ghost Story I think.) I also believe the McCormick Center was featured in one of the more recent works. I want to find out, now that I’ve been here.

indigo sweater

In this image of a child’s sweater, (what I decided to use the indigo dyed yarn for), the different shades of blue are clearly visible. Although I chose to wad up the skein of yarn, so that the strands dyed at different intensities, indigo is usually used in a vat. In a large container like a vat, the fiber can spread out and every part dyes equally.

echild's sweater