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more about weaving and looms

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As I continue to research the varieties of looms, I came across a book titled “Women’s Work, the first 20,000 years” by Elizabeth Wayland Barber. In it, she traces the history of weaving, from the first beginnings when primitive fiber was twisted into string and used to make clothing.

The modern loom is actually a very sophisticated construct, with many variations that came before. I am thinking of the ground loom that the Ancient Egyptians used to weave linen.

The backstrap loom is another efficient loom that is still used in some places today, such as Peru.

For millenia, the weaving of cloth was women’s work, easily fit in around child care. I am proud to weave (I feel I am not skilled enough to call myself a weaver) and work at other fiber arts; I am at the end of a long line of tradition.

More about indigo

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hough indigo is a pain to work with, and will dye your sink, your hands, the vat and practically anything it touches, it produces such a wonderful blue that one can’t help but love it.

Besides the silk scarf I dyed, that came out a pastel, I also dyed lambswool. It is intended for a young boy’s sweater. I prefer the tie-dyed look and that is what I got. Usually the fiber is spread out in a vat so that it dyes evenly.

It is easy to see the variation although these strands are primarily lightly dyed.

indigo lightI

Some of the strands dyed the dark indigo, so familiar to denim wearers.

indigo dark

 

And the skein overall demonstrates the variation, from very light to very dark.indigo wool

King Indigo

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If Madder is Queen, then Indigo must be King of natural dyes. Indigo bearing plants occur in many parts of the world. Woad, the blue stuff used by Mel Gibson is actually a form of indigo.

Indigo, unlike onion skins or madder or even cochineal, does not require a mordant. The real problem is preparing the dye to make it useable. Indigo is not water soluble so the water has to be sufficiently alkaline to ‘fix’ the dye onto the fiber.

The real work comes in the processing of the indigo plant into dye. The weed was covered with lime water and soaked. Fermentation began in the vat, resulting in a blue froth rising to the top of the water. The water is drained into a second vat and agitated. Then lime water is added to reduce the dye. Clear liquid rises to the top and sediment containing the dye settles to the bottom.

Excess water is drained and the indigo is dried. It is cut into bricks and left to dry.

I confess I don’t do this. I buy partially reduced indigo dyes, which looks like chunks of blue stone.

indigo scarf

These chunks are heated. I add a reducer; thiox dioxide, plus soda ash. Soda ash is like the lime; it makes the water alkaline. The solution is heated and amazingly enough, the liquid turns a funny yellowish green.

Cloth or fiber dipped into the dye comes out that same yellow green but as it hits the air, it turns blue.

This is a really smelly process. One of my students likened it to having a perm. And the smell lingers long after the vat of dye has been removed elsewhere.

Indigo overdyes beautifully and I dyed the above scarf with both the indigo and the madder. The central section is a very interesting mix of blue and peach.

 

Queen Madder

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Madder is a root, latin name Rubia tinctorum. This is a dye that has been known for many years. The plant has little yellow flowers and has to grow in the fields for three years before the roots can be harvested and used.

madder

Depending upon the mordant, it yields red, a pinky brown, or brown. However, because it is a botanical and dependent upon growing conditions, yield and color can vary.

I mordanted silk scarves with alum and cream of tartar.

The chopped roots were put into a stocking and soaked in a dye bath.

 

madder

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Although the dye bath itself was a lovely red, my scarf came out more of a pale peach.

madder scarf

 

 

Dyeing with Annatto seeds

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I work in a library and, well I guess most people don’t know this, but libraries run regular programs. Since I am a crafty person and especially interested in textiles and textile crafts, I do a lot of programs that involve quilting and dyeing.

Using the same directions I used for onion skins, we dyed annatto seeds. Annatto seeds are red seeds that are used in Latino cooking, most particularly Puerto Rican cooking. Thus, they are totally non-toxic.

annato seeds

 

 

annatto dyed cotton

 

 

 

Here is a cotton towel dyed with annatto seeds. It is a lovely sunflower yellow.

 

 

 

 

annatto dyed yarn

 

One of my students preferred to dye lambswool, worsted weight. The yarn had more orange to it. A really beautiful color.

Oil from a whale

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But plenty of sperm whales lost the battle, and very cruelly too. The harpoons didn’t usually kill the whale, that was the job of the lance, That had to be thrown accurately and twisted. Descriptions mention the bloody sea all around the dying whale.

Then the whale was towed back to the ship to be cut into pieces. The blubber, which was not soft fat as we imagine but hard, was cut into large pieces called blankets. Then these were cut into squares about one foot by one foot and then minced. These small pieces were boiled in try pots, or kettles, upon the brick stove which looked sort of like a fire pit, called the try works. The oil was boiled out of this and then the remains were thrown into the fire. Descriptions mention the black greasy cloud of smoke that hung over the whale ships for days.

The sperm whales were prized because their heads contained a chamber, called the case, which contained many barrels of oil. The case was cut open and the oil drained.

. The size of the whale did not determine how many barrels of oil were acquired from the whale and the number of barrels was the final determination of a successful trip. One account  described the taking of a smallish whale that still produced 91 barrels of oil.

Whale bone, which was actually taken from the teeth, was also much in demand in this day when women wore corsets. At one time, whale bone was valued at $6.00 per pound, a large sum at that time.

And sometimes whalers found ambergris. It is thought that ambergris was a secretion that formed around a scar or other injury. It t was very valuable as a fixer for perfumes. In those days, the perfume was usually attar of roses. Ambergris is still used sometimes for very expensive perfumes but for most  the scent is fixed with something synthetic.A good thing in my opinion.

The whale industry began dying a rapid death after oil was discovered in Pennsylvania in the mid 1800’s, at least in the U.S. Other countries take whales to this day. What a shame! IMHO these magnificent animals should be left alone.

 

 

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Although no one has actually asked me where I get my ideas, I have gotten plenty of other questions along those lines. The thing is, because writing is so individual, and so unconscious, it is pretty hard to answer any of these questions at all satisfactorily.

The ideas just pop into my head. I don’t know it it’s because of something I’ve read or what. Sometimes, the idea is fully formed. Other times, I need to massage it into something workable.

Then, because I don’t outline, I write scene by scene. Does this mean I have to go back and rework until I’m heartily sick of the entire work? Yes. But, by not outlining, I allow my characters to find their own space. Sometimes, as with Lydia, they become something different than I had intended. They take over, in effect.

Other times, the characters only become fully formed after I’ve rewritten them three or four times.

Although I think the writer who said, and I’m paraphrasing, that writing is easy; you just sit down and open a vein, was definitely overstating the case, it is true that it can be a much more difficult job than anyone would believe. I must have reread A Simple Murder at least 25 times – and that’s after I thought I’d finished it.

One definitely has to be addicted to writing to be able to continue it, especially in the face of rejection.!

Sperm whales and more

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Will Rees #4 will take place in Salem, Ma. The merchant captains from Salem opened up American trade with the Orient which, at that time, included India as well as China.
New Bedford and Nantucket are more well known as whaling centers but Salem also had an active whaling industry. The right whales were the first to be taken. Since they kept close to shore, the Indians paddled out in canoes. When the settlers began whaling, they sailed out in shallops, small schooners. The right whales were soon decimated,
Whaling ships then went either to the Arctic, for the Bowhead whale, or to southern waters for the Sperm whale. Of course, as the whaling industry went on, the herds of these whales were exhausted as well, and soon whaling ships were sailing around the Cape of Good Hope to the Pacific.
Although the sperm whales were fighters, plenty of them lost the battle, and very cruelly too. The harpoons didn’t usually kill the whale, that was the job of the lance. That had to be thrown accurately and twisted. Descriptions mention the bloody sea all around the dying whale.
Then the whale was towed back to the ship to be cut into pieces. The blubber, which was not soft fat as we imagine but hard, was cut into large pieces called blankets. Then these were cut into squares about one foot by one foot and then minced. These small pieces were boiled in try pots, or kettles, upon the brick stove which looked sort of like a fire pit, called the try works. The oil was boiled out of this and then the remains were thrown into the fire. Descriptions mention the black greasy cloud of smoke that hung over the whale ships for days.
The sperm whales were prized because their heads contained a chamber, called the case, which contained many barrels of oil. The case was cut open and the oil drained.
. The size of the whale did not determine how many barrels of oil were acquired from the whale and the number of barrels was the final determination of a successful trip. One account described the taking of a smallish whale that still produced 91 barrels of oil.
Whale bone, which was actually taken from the teeth, was also much in demand in this day when women wore corsets. At one time, whale bone was valued at $6.00 per pound, a large sum at that time.
And sometimes whalers found ambergris. It is thought that ambergris was a secretion that formed around a scar or other injury. It t was very valuable as a fixer for perfumes. In those days, the perfume was usually attar of roses. Ambergris is still used sometimes for very expensive perfumes but for most the scent is fixed with something synthetic. A good thing in my opinion.
The whale industry began dying a rapid death after oil was discovered in Pennsylvania in the mid 1800’s, at least in the U.S. Other countries take whales to this day. What a shame! IMHO these magnificent animals should be left alone.

The Next Big Thing: A Blog Hop

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bloghopbutton (1) What is the working title of your next book? “DEATH OF A DYER” is the final title of the second book.

Where did the idea come from for the book? I had a lot of loose ends to tie up after my first book. Since I am interested in textiles, I thought it would be fun to use dyes and dyeing as a piece of the background. *

What genre does your book fall under? Historical Murder Mystery *

Which actors would you choose to play your characters in a movie rendition? Wow, this is tough. I think David Wenham (Faramir in The Lord of the Rings) and Scarlett Johansson.

What is the one-sentence synopsis of your book? Rees returns to his home town, which he fled several years previously, and investigates the death of a childhood friend.

Will your book be self-published or represented by an agency? Minotaur will be publishing this one too.

How long did it take you to write the first draft of your manuscript? The first draft took me about 6 – 9 months but the revisions took several months more.

What other books would you compare this story to within your genre? I love historical mysteries and I aspire to write as well as Barbara Hambly and Anne Perry.

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Whalemen and whales

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Conditions were rough. If the whalers were hunting in the Arctic, it was cold. But it was worse if the ship was in southern waters. The boiling down of whale blubber went on for days so a fire was burning in the brick fireplace on the deck. The combination of the warm seas and the fire meant that the temperature on board could be over 100 degrees F. Most of the crew slept below decks; it must have been unbearable. If the journey was a long one, the food began to spoil.

Whaling was not for the faint of heart, even before engaging a whale.

Six men set off in a small boat. If they succeeded in harpooning a whale, they could be dragged a good distance. One smack by the whale’s tale could shatter a small boat and many whale men were killed.

But plenty of sperm whales lost the battle, and very cruelly too. The harpoons didn’t usually kill the whale, that was the job of the lance, That had to be thrown accurately and twisted. Descriptions mention the bloody sea all around the dying whale.

Then the whale was towed back to the ship to be cut into pieces.